Tony decided that he wanted to mount up some larger tires in his quest to look as cool as a Jeep…
Say what you want about wheel spacers, but after tens of thousands of miles we’ve yet to have a problem with any of our vehicles. Any vehicle modification that’s installed incorrectly or haphazardly it’s going to fail, and the majority of wheel spacer issues we’ve seen are due to improper installation or low quality parts. That’s all we really have to say about them, so if you like them keep reading, if you hate them feel free to furiously pound away at your keyboard.
What happens when you mount tires onto a dirty wheel
Recently Tony installed some of my old 34″ KM2’s on the FJ Cruiser with the end goal of running 35’s. Although in order to clear the suspension components with his stock wheels he needed to add some backspacing so that’s where the wheel spacers come in.
Textbook example of how not to use a Hi-Lift
We went with 1.5″ aluminum CNC machined wheel spacers, if you even consider forged aluminum spacers please hit yourself in the head with your keyboard. They might be cheaper, but this is one place where you don’t want to sacrifice quality to safe a few dollars.
Bolting on the spacers are pretty straight forward, and if you can’t figure it out you probably shouldn’t be working on your truck. That being said, make sure to follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions and torque specs.
After you get everything mounted up and torqued down, take the truck out for a drive and then bring it back in and torque everything down one more time. You should also check the torque after the first couple hundred miles, and re-torque them every time you do an oil change.
Now you’re ready to throw on some 35″ tires, just make sure you have enough suspension lift and that you’ve already performed a body chop, otherwise you might have a little rub.
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